Heading to La Tuque in Winter

Travelling by train in winter feels almost magical. The farther you move away from the city, the more pristine the snowy landscapes become. Buildings give way to forest. From a front-row seat, you witness spontaneous scenes: snowflakes settling on branches already heavy with snow, a gust of wind ruffling the top of a spruce tree… With a bit of luck, you might even spot a hare or a partridge. The experience is all the more immersive knowing that cell service disappears for part of the journey.

To reach La Tuque, you board the train bound for Senneterre, in Abitibi–Témiscamingue. Passengers share the same convoy as those heading to Jonquière, though in different cars. It is at Hervey-Jonction station, in the Mauricie region, that the trains separate and each group continues on its respective route.

Settled comfortably in the warmth of the carriage, I alternate between contemplation, reading and napping. The large windows make it possible to enjoy the scenery regardless of Mother Nature's mood. In Iceland, where the weather doesn't always invite outdoor play, this activity is known as gluggaveður, or “window weather.” I can think of no better place than a train to indulge in it, as the landscape transforms with every passing kilometre.

The journey begins the moment I step into my assigned car. I have a small ritual: arranging my space so that all my essentials are within easy reach (water bottle, charging cables and snacks). All that's left to do is let myself be carried along.

As soon as the train plunges into the forest, I lose all sense of place. Mesmerized by snow-laden branches, I realize that this is the essence of travel: fragments of scenery gathered here and there, already far removed from everyday life. I sometimes strike up a conversation with fellow passengers, but I never force it. Staying wrapped in my own quiet bubble, headphones snugly in place, often feels like the most delightful pause. Respecting your mood in the moment is undoubtedly the best way to fully enjoy a journey by rail.

The station as the starting point for a stay in La Tuque

La Tuque's train station sits right in the heart of town. It also houses the local tourism office. I learn that the municipality owes its name to a mountain whose shape once resembled… a tuque, or knitted hat. “Part of it was destroyed when the dam was built,” explains Marie-Josée Tousignant, coordinator of tourist reception and promotion.

To ease into the visit, the Atisoko Discovery Circuit, which begins at the station, is an excellent choice. This pedestrian route—Atisoko meaning “Tell me” in Atikamekw—offers an introduction to the town's history through figures who have shaped the region. Immersive panels punctuate the walk, which concludes with a mural created in 2023 by Sautozieux in collaboration with local artist Jacques Newashish.

Right next to the station is a taxi stand. “Distances in La Tuque aren't very long,” says Valérie Fortin, Head of Tourism Development and Retention. “Someone who doesn't want to drive can easily get around by taxi.”

Among the winter activities that stand out, she mentions skiing, snowshoeing, dog sledding and ice fishing. “On one side of the mountain you can ski, and on the other, snowshoe.” Ski La Tuque offers families 13 downhill runs, nine of which are lit in the evening. In addition to a beginner slope and a snowpark, visitors can also enjoy tubing. Cross-country ski trails add up to nearly 40 kilometres, while about 100 kilometres of additional trails are maintained by volunteers.

Open from January to March and from May to late October, Parc des chutes de la Petite-Rivière-Bostonnais—where skates and snowshoes are available to borrow—is another wonderful playground. In summer, a guide-interpreter welcomes visitors at the former trading post. Log driving takes centre stage at the Saint-Maurice River Interpretation Centre, a tempting reason to return during the warmer months.

In the evening, a new architectural light projection on Saint-Zéphirin Church, in the heart of downtown, offers a poetic glimpse into the world of La Tuque's residents. The show runs every night from Tuesday to Saturday.

Looking for an indoor activity instead? A free exhibition created by Tourisme La Tuque traces the history of local aviation at the Gaston-Hamel aerodrome. Equipped with virtual reality headsets, visitors can soar over the territory without leaving the ground, while also exploring interpretive displays.

Where to eat and sleep

About 30 minutes from the station, Méandre invites visitors to truly unplug in furnished domes that can accommodate up to four people. There is no electricity or Wi-Fi, but a wood stove and fireplace keep guests warm. A gas burner and a charcoal BBQ make it possible to cook meals. Trails accessible year-round lead down to the lake. In winter, the site can be reached on foot, by snowshoes, by Hok skis or by bike (rentals available). Nearby, a 4-kilometre trail also follows a river. A spa is available as well. The biggest plus: non-motorized travel is encouraged throughout the site.

For a drink or a bite to eat in downtown La Tuque, three reliable favourites stand out: La Pécheresse microbrewery, Bistro Le Mauricien and Le Boké. Founded in 2015 by Michael Martineau and Marc-André Ayotte and a six-time recipient of World Beer Awards honours, La Pécheresse welcomes beer lovers in a warm, inviting atmosphere. While Bistro Le Mauricien focuses on classic dishes, Le Boké blends Québec flavours in highly creative ways. Warm brie casserole with apricots, cranberries and maple syrup; sushi pizza with two types of salmon and teriyaki caramel; a variety of tartares… Enough to make après-ski even more appealing.