Winter in Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean by train

A true paradise for winter lovers, Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean? Without a doubt. Throughout the region, enthusiasts of cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, ice fishing, fat biking and good old-fashioned sledding enjoy a vast, pristine white playground. Snow often lingers well beyond the official arrival of spring. To get there, nothing compares to travelling by rail, often far from the highway. On stormy days, the train feels like a snow globe come to life.

Of course, the journey takes much longer than driving. We leave Montréal through its hidden back corridors, catching a glimpse of the iconic Farine Five Roses sign and peeking into apartment backyards. Soon, fields stretch out beside the tracks as we head toward Mauricie, where towns and villages roll by before the train plunges into the heart of the forest. The cars wind around countless lakes and rivers. For much of the trip, there is no cell service. Between reading, napping and gazing out the large windows, the “pause” button slowly clicks on. All that’s left to do is relax and sway gently in the warmth of the train towards Jonquière.

One-of-a-Kind Experiences

I grew up in Saint-Félicien, about 40 kilometres from the Chambord station, where passengers disembark to explore Lac-Saint-Jean. Nearby, the historic village of Val-Jalbert has fascinated me since childhood. Back then, everyone talked about it as a “ghost town,” which was enough to both terrify and intrigue me. Once there, it wasn’t so much the abandoned houses that caught my attention as the majestic Ouiatchouan Falls. While visitors once had to climb some 764 steps to reach the top, today a cable car can take you there in just a few minutes during the summer (though I still prefer the stairs!). From above, the view over Lac-Saint-Jean is spectacular.

In addition to the stilted tiny houses facing the village, several historic buildings have been converted into hotel rooms. I once slept above the old general store. Though the building dates back to the 1920s, the guest accommodations offer all modern comforts. And no, I never ran into any ghosts.

From October to May, when the site appears to be asleep, visitors can purchase tickets to explore the area on foot, snowshoes, cross-country skis or even snow scooters. Frozen by the cold, the waterfall transforms into a true work of art.

In Saint-Félicien, I’ve had a front-row seat to the transformation of Zoo sauvage, which is very different from the traditional zoos I’ve visited over the years. Its nature trails—where “animals are free and humans are in cages,” as the slogan once went—allow visitors to observe many boreal forest species from a small caged train. It’s almost impossible not to spot a black bear (except during hibernation), a moose or a bison.

At a time when ethical questions around animal welfare are increasingly present, I’ll admit I’ve wondered whether I should continue visiting “my” zoo. Yes, the organization has a sustainable development policy and places strong emphasis on education and awareness—but is that enough? I still haven’t made up my mind. What I do know is that significant efforts have been made to create more suitable habitats for the animals. For instance, the polar bear habitat inaugurated in 2018 is ten times larger than the previous one. The addition of new activities to energize the site also seems promising. In late summer 2025, for example, the first Boreal Run attracted runners of all ages.

Created by Moment Factory, the Anima Lumina nighttime trail offers a completely different way to experience the site—after dark. A new restaurant designed by architect Pierre Thibault has also transformed part of the zoo, offering a more diverse menu. Rest assured, however, the classic Lac-Saint-Jean tourtière is still on the menu.

Unusual Activities and Accommodations

In winter, snowmobiling is one of the region’s signature activities. The asserelle du 49e parallèle trail stretches 236 kilometres through the boreal forest, from the Chute-à-l’Ours tourist site in Normandin to the Péribonka River. From there, riders can continue on toward the Monts Valin.

In Roberval, visitors can lace up their skates at the Village sur glace, where small huts are set up for the winter season. Fat-bike enthusiasts can ride across Lac-Saint-Jean or the Saguenay Fjord, while a 12-kilometre foot race is also held directly on the frozen lake.

Two stations after Chambord, getting off the train in Jonquière makes it easy to join a variety of excursions, including electric snowmobile tours in the Monts Valin.

The Monts-Valin National Park is among the snowiest areas in the region. In winter, trees morph into towering white “ghosts,” best explored on snowshoes or Nordic skis. In summer, the park’s trails can be discovered on foot or by bike, and visitors can enjoy canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding and even Arctic char fishing.

For a truly immersive experience, consider spending the night in a mountainside yurt.

Among the most intriguing places to stay, Imago Village offers a remarkable immersion in nature. Designed locally, its yurts and other unusual accommodations are set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Monts Valin, facing the Valinouët ski resort. The area boasts 100% natural snow until late March and is just minutes from L’Éternel Spa, which is open year-round. When the snow finally melts, mountain biking takes over, with trails located close to the yurts.

A favourite among snowmobilers, Imago Village is also home to Café Giallo and the Yourte Bistro du Nord, which offers a set menu inspired by local flavours, along with a standout filet mignon poutine.

In Saint-Fulgence, overlooking the Saguenay Fjord, Cap Jaseux Adventure Park is now open year-round. Its aerial courses deliver an adrenaline rush for both kids and adults, and in winter, visitors can even try via ferrata. Several accommodations remain open throughout the colder months, including domes, pods, chalets and log cabins.

One thing is certain: no matter the season, outdoor enthusiasts will find plenty to keep them busy throughout the region. For inspiration and travel ideas, visit visit the Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean tourism website.