Visit Saskatoon: Art, Food and Sustainability

Credit: Tourism Saskatchewan

With its many green spaces and a surprisingly vibrant cultural scene, Saskatoon is one of the most underrated cities in Canada. Since 2022, Saskatchewan’s largest agglomeration—and one of the sunniest in the country—has implemented a series of initiatives to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 40% compared to its 2014 levels and by 80% by 2050, in addition to promoting active transportation. The city focuses on renewable power—namely wind, solar and hydraulic—and low-emission energy to improve its carbon footprint.

It was June 30, 2017. When I exited the Canadian train, which brought me from Toronto to Saskatoon, it felt like I was hallucinating—flashes of green were dancing in the sky. The Northern Lights were there to greet me! What an auspicious start to my first time in Saskatchewan’s largest city.

The next few days didn’t disappoint. I happened upon the site of the SaskTel Saskatchewan Jazz Festival and took full advantage of the incredible energy. Aside from enjoying the concerts, I sampled some street food in one of the roads made pedestrian-only for the event. My visit also coincided with the Canada Day celebrations. The people’s high spirits were contagious!

Other than the friendly vibes, what I really loved was being able to easily walk everywhere. Over at Gather Local Market, I found tons of delectable delights, discovered regional products of all kinds and chatted with the affable artisans. Plus, it was berry season. Yum!

Credit: Tourism Saskatchewan and Marie-Julie Gagnon

Back again, seven years later

It was December 2024. I checked in at the Alt Hotel and admired its view of the South Saskatchewan River. This downtown establishment set up shop in 2019 across the Remai Modern, a museum that opened a few months after my first visit and houses the most comprehensive collection of linocuts by Pablo Picasso. Saskatoon is full of surprises!

I love everything about the Alt Hotels, from the cozy, functional and unpretentious rooms to the laid-back public areas where you can sit and work on your laptop. Most of all, I appreciate the Canadian brand’s commitment to improving its sustainable practices across all its Germain Hotels properties. For instance, gone are all single-use plastic water bottles. Those who have a bottle of their own can refill it at one of the many stations found throughout the hotel, and those who don’t can purchase an aluminum one made by North Water at the boutique.

From the local market to the museum

I was curious to visit Gather Local Market again, so I went right when it opened. In the middle of December, berries weren’t a big highlight, but you couldn’t ignore the vast selection of hot sauces. One of the vendors explained that each artisan—and they’re all friendly with each other—has something different to offer, and that’s why there are so many options. “It’s really a question of taste,” he said. With names like Macho Mustard and Zombie Punch, the ones made by Deadly Dan truly stand out! Note to self: Next time, come later in the day and enjoy a tasting.

As soon as you enter Remai Modern, you see about 3,000 colourful pieces hanging from the ceiling. You can’t help but marvel at this Spinner Forest piece by Nick Cave—the contemporary Chicago artist, not the Australian singer. Beyond the rainbow hues, there are different shapes that make you stop and think: a teardrop, a gun, a peace sign…

Credit: Tourism Saskatchewan

As well as showcasing Canadian artists—like Alison Norlen, who’s called Saskatchewan home for the last 30-odd years; Lawren S. Harris, a member of the Group of Seven known for his landscapes; Jim Graham, a native of the province; and iconic BC painter Emily Carr—the museum boasts the world’s largest collection of Picasso linocuts, 405 pieces of which were donated by the Frank and Ellen Remai Foundation.

Since October 2022, admission has been by donation. “Remai Modern is named after Frank and Ellen Remai,” explained Stephanie McKay, Communications Manager. “Ellen is our strongest supporter and has had a major impact thanks to her philanthropy. She’s donated over $100 million to this museum alone. When the new CEOs came in, they heard that the cost of entry was prohibitive for some people. They thought about how to make this place more accessible, because art should be for everyone. Ellen agreed with that philosophy and provided her support. She committed to donating $500,000 a year for 20 years so we could be pay-what-you-can. […] Since then, the number of visitors has skyrocketed. We even reached record numbers last year.” Over 213,000 people have come to admire the gallery’s eclectic collection, which includes more than 8,000 pieces of artwork.

Inclusion and delicious food

Inclusion is at the heart of everything they do at Remai Modern. “Every entrance is wheelchair accessible,” Stephanie said. “All our signage is in braille. We collaborate with a variety of community organizations to ensure that people who may not be able to get to the museum still have access to our programs. […] We also work with groups of new Canadians so they can come and learn more about their city. We’re always looking for innovative ways to improve accessibility. Recently, we began hosting low-sensory visits [for people with particular sensory needs] where we dim the lights. The guides go over what visitors can expect, which can be very helpful, especially for people with autism.”

I had a soft spot for the Life in Print exhibit, with artwork by Picasso and South African artist William Kentridge that showcases their shared love of printmaking.

Before leaving, I stopped by Hearth Restaurant, which is known for dishes inspired by local and seasonal flavours and its quality vegetarian options. It opened in 2023 within the museum itself, facing the South Saskatchewan River. With my hotel less than a minute’s walk away, I indulged in one of its signature cocktails, the Saskatoon Club—made with a hibiscus-infused local gin—and ordered a plate of wild mushrooms on a bed of mornay sauce, paired with a lovely glass of red wine. Yet another benefit of getting around on foot!

Later, I learned that Stumbletown, the distillery that produces the gin in my cocktail, offers different guided tours. Notably, the Gin Experience and Whisky Experience include workshops on how to concoct drinks.

Credit: Tourism Saskatchewan

I also discovered that you can sleep in one of the luxurious domes set up at Blackstrap Provincial Park and learn more about Indigenous culture and the Prairies through the experiences offered by Wanuskewin, which translates to “seeking peace of mind.” Yet another reason to come back again!

Credit: Tourism Saskatchewan

Created in 1983, Wanuskewin Heritage Park has been a sacred site and a gathering place for over 6,400 years. In summer, themed guided walks are offered for those interested in archeology, native plants or even bison (that’s right, there are bison here!). There’s also a restaurant that serves bison burgers, bannock (a flatbread that was a staple in the diets of early settlers) and plant-based dishes.

Credit: Tourism Saskatchewan

Even better, Wanuskewin gives visitors the chance to enjoy a meal outdoors during the summer on one of three days. The Han Wi Dinner is a celebration of the Northern Plains through the senses. As the website explains, “Your evening begins with a guided walk through the Opimihāw Valley, bringing you to our tipi village, where you’ll learn more about the cultures, history and science of the land. Next is a curated multi-course meal inspired by the land, followed by dessert, storytelling and a cultural presentation, with panoramic sunset views overlooking the South Saskatchewan River and Opimihāw Valley.”

I already know what time of day I’ll be going back!

Summary:

• The SaskTel Saskatchewan Jazz Festival takes place in early July every year. It’s an excellent opportunity to explore the city in the full swing of summer!
• Saskatoon celebrates more than just jazz—check out Folkfest in August.
• The Han Wi Dinner in Wanuskewin Park is only offered on a few dates every summer. The park also has an Indigenous art exhibit, 6 km of trails and tipis where you can spend the night.
• In summer, you can rent a bike and ride on the path along the river or go on a stand-up paddleboard adventure.
• Other restaurants to try: Filosophi, which focuses on ingredients from the Prairies, Living Sky Café, run by two friends who met in high school, and Odd Couple, a spot that fuses Cantonese, Japanese and Vietnamese flavours, and is owned by a family from Hong Kong.
• Saskatoon is located in the traditional territory of Treaty Six First Nations and the homeland of the Métis.

Thank you to the Alt Hotel Saskatoon for hosting me.