A Car-Free Visit to Halifax

Halifax has gone through something of a rebirth recently, and there's no arguing that it's become one of the liveliest cities in the country. Even better, many of the new spots around town were designed with sustainability in mind.

I made my way to Halifax from Montréal aboard the Ocean. The last time I visited, in summer 2022, I was blown away by Queen's Marque, a new district by the water that totally transformed the area. An old parking lot was replaced by the fabulous Muir Hotel at the heart of this neighbourhood, which is also home to luxury boutiques and gourmet restaurants. Five decades after developer Ben McCrea turned seven warehouses into a pedestrian zone, his son Scott did even more to reshape the section next to the original project.

All around, you'll find artwork that draws in passersby and a number of patios and public places where people can hang out. You can book a ride aboard the Muir yacht for a different view of the shoreline or even rent a bike and create your own adventure. There are so many ways to explore the waterfront!

After a few conversations, I realized that the district is more than just beautiful—it was designed to promote sustainable development and the city's maritime history. From the hotel's construction materials to the cobblestones, everything was selected with care. Some of the granite was even reclaimed from the original Halifax seawall—it's estimated to be between 200 and 250 years old! As the hotel's website explains, “Queen's Marque and Muir were designed with the future in mind. A Sea Water Loop and single-plan heat pump reduce Muir's carbon footprint and create one of the most energy-efficient buildings in the region. Water is drawn from the harbour, harnessing the renewable energy of the sea for heating and cooling.”

What's more, the Muir was awarded a Michelin Key in 2024, reflecting the hotel's commitment to excellence. And coupled with the many new restaurants in the area, I can't wait to spend time in Queen's Marque on this trip.

In the heart of the action

This time around, I stayed at the Westin Nova Scotian, which is connected to the train station. How convenient when you're travelling by rail! This entirely renovated hotel is also in an ideal location for exploring the surrounding area on foot.

The nearby farmers' market has a sampling of what local artisans have to offer, and there's a nice selection of dishes and drinks you can order to go. A vendor had a gorgeous tree of life necklace that I couldn't leave without—and haven't taken off since.

I love going on guided tours, even in places I've visited before. During this trip, I booked a cruise with Halifax Harbour Tours on an all-electric boat that seats eight. Not only is the Violet Mac non-polluting, it's also whisper-quiet. That's because it's powered by an electric battery, as well as solar panels installed on the roof. The hull of the vessel comes from a decommissioned steamboat that was built a century ago, while the interior was made using material recovered from demolished buildings. “The seats are from an old theatre,” said the guide, Leah Pritchard.

As we gently sailed along, Leah shared both historical information and recommendations to suit every taste. And with such a quiet engine, she didn't need a microphone—no one had any trouble hearing her. “This is one of the longest wooden boardwalks in the world,” she added, pointing to the path I took earlier to reach the dock.

At Leah's suggestion, I headed to Dartmouth a few hours later. You can get there in just a few minutes by taking a ferry—the oldest in North America to sail on saltwater. And it only costs $2.50! Once I arrived, I was faced with a difficult dilemma: Evan's Seafood, a local favourite, or The Wooden Monkey, which describes itself as “a restaurant with a conscience.” Why not both?

The two restaurants are by the water, close to where the ferry docked. I ordered fish and chips at the first spot, and pasta at the second. Luckily, they both offer doggy bags. I'm already looking forward to my midnight snack!

Diving into history

The Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 is a must for anyone in Halifax. Here, you can learn all about the history of immigration in Canada—the travelling conditions for European immigrants who came by boat, what they had to go through when they arrived and how they were sent all over the country by train. Even on a third visit, it remains a fascinating look at a time when everything had yet to be built.

Near the end of my stay, I moved to the new Moxy hotel so I could be closer to the North End, in Mi'kma'ki territory and where the first German settlers made their homes in the 1700s. Here, you can see stunning Victorian houses that survived the 1917 Halifax Explosion when the Mont-Blanc, a steamship loaded with munitions, exploded and decimated the city.

I took a stroll down Gottingen Street and stumbled upon The Viola Desmond Experience, an art installation created by Marven Nelligan set up between a braiding salon and a barbershop. Unveiled in 2022, it's a recreation of a hair salon to pay tribute to beautician and businesswoman Viola Desmond, who was arrested in 1946 for watching a movie in the whites-only section of a theatre. Later, I had a meal at Edna, a charming restaurant in the same neighbourhood with a menu featuring locally sourced seasonal products.

Before turning in, I went back to the enchanting Queen's Marque for a little something special. At the Peacock Wine Bar, the bartender recommended a glass of Joie de Vivre sparkling wine from a vineyard called L'Acadie. What a dazzling way to end a dream trip!

Helpful information:

• The Violet Mac is an open vessel, so be sure to dress warmly for the hour-long cruise. You can book with Halifax Harbour Tours, and the boat operates from mid-May to October 31. Cost: $45
• In the North End, The Narrows is a pub that's more than worth the detour for both the setting and the menu featuring traditional dishes. If you love potatoes, order the Dutch Mess. Hearty and delectable!
• Two favourites right around the corner from the Westin Nova Scotian: Trident Booksellers & Cafe, where you can read and have a bite, and Rousseau Chocolatier, where you can get a heartwarming cup of hot cocoa.
• Guided tours of the Halifax Public Gardens are available from June to October.