120 years of travel aboard the Ocean train

From Montréal to Halifax, the Ocean transports passengers over 1,346 kilometres from the city to the seaside. They spend one day and one night peacefully chugging along through three provinces: Québec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Dating back to 1904, the route brings to mind several major milestones in Canadian history. Spotlight on one of the oldest passenger rail lines in North America.

The Ocean symbolizes an openness to possibilities, taking passengers to and from the easternmost station in the country. But before the inauguration of the Intercolonial Railway in 1876, things were completely different.

To truly grasp the importance of this railroad when it opened, you need to go back to the 19th century. The port in Halifax—because it’s vast, deep and doesn’t freeze over—played a pivotal role in the development of the city. But at a time when road transport was still practically the stuff of science fiction, how could people ship merchandise to Canada’s inner provinces?

A condition for joining Confederation

Just as British Columbia would demand a few years later, the Maritime provinces made joining Confederation conditional on being connected to the rest of the continent by rail. That’s how the Intercolonial Railway became the first major transport project launched by what was then the Dominion of Canada.

From 1856 onward, the Grand Trunk Railway connected Canada West and Canada East, domestic market, the railroad extension two decades later would open up new export opportunities for them on the other side of the Atlantic. In 1919, it was integrated into the Canadian National Railway, which became the second transcontinental railway network in North America.

Because the railroads had massive land grants, they also influenced where immigrants settled after their boats arrived at the various ports throughout the country, including in Halifax. Cities and villages then began to develop all along the rails.

During WWII, soldiers took the train to Pier 21—today the namesake of a museum in Halifax—before getting on the boat to go off to war.

All aboard!

With all this in mind, I boarded the Ocean at Central Station in Montréal. I can’t imagine how a young soldier must have felt when preparing to ship overseas. It’s also said that afterwards, war brides and their children took the opposite route—arriving in Halifax and travelling westward.

My trip couldn’t be more different. Nowadays, taking the train is largely a choice. People pick this way of travel for its old-world charm, to avoid flying or to admire the landscapes. Opting for the train means treating yourself to a break as you get from point A to point B—and it’s a chance to watch the scenery go by.

This is my second experience on board the Ocean. My first time was with my daughter when she was five, and she enjoyed every moment of the trip. Not only did she adore seeing the beautiful landscapes, she also took the opportunity to convince me to play all the games that I usually don’t take part in at home. Let’s just say that UNO took up a good chunk of our time during our 22-hour journey…

A stranger is just a friend you haven’t met yet

Beyond the picture-perfect vistas, mealtimes are a highlight on these long trips, when passengers from the sleeping cars are seated at random in the restaurant. Whether you’re on the Canadian or the Ocean, chance encounters keep things interesting. You end up sharing little parts of the journey with people from all over.

The waiter directed me to a table for four, where I joined three other diners: a couple from Campbellton and a woman from Edmonton. The New Brunswickers had just spent 10 days in Montréal for an operation that prevented them from taking the plane, while the Albertan had already travelled on the Canadian and explored Montréal before now making her way to Halifax. She was achieving a lifelong dream of crossing the country—or most of it—by train.

On the menu: mushroom-glazed braised beef, dukkah butter salmon with rice, butternut squash ravioli, and paneer tikka masala (a soft unsalted cheese served with sauce and rice). The conversation chugged along nicely—the dining car is the perfect place to meet friendly folks.

My cabin was quite small, but it was ideal for when I needed some me time in between socializing. The service attendant arrived to turn my sofa into a bed, and I asked her not to change it back come morning, just so I could take full advantage of my cocoon to rest or read.

The Maritimes in a different light

Depending on the direction of the trip, time of year and when day turns to night, the views are never the same. This time around, I only saw the Bas-Saint-Laurent region and Matapedia Valley in my dreams. Some people have trouble sleeping on trains, but in my case, despite the occasional squeaks, I’m lulled by the movement of the locomotive.

Cell signal was sparse for most of the trip, which forced me to look at something other than my phone or computer. The workaholic in me doesn’t disconnect easily, but when I do, I’m always surprised by how utterly at peace I feel. Time slowed down and I found myself enjoying the moment. I even contemplated a little nap.

When I wasn’t sleeping, I peered at the backyards of the cities and villages we passed by. Or I read. Or snacked—maybe a bit too much. When we got to Campbellton, I stepped out for a quick break in the sunshine.

Near Restigouche, NB, I kept my eyes peeled. The brochure given to passengers indicated that we had reached our 19th stop. “Petit-Rocher has the water within each. The people are friendly, and they love life and visitors. Pleasant in summer and fun in winter, the village is a delight to visit year-round thanks to the warm welcome of its inhabitants and the many tourist attractions. Every year on August 15, National Acadian Day is celebrated with great fanfare.” The next stops were Bathurst, Miramichi, Rogerville, Moncton…

I was almost disappointed to hear the announcement for our final destination. I said goodbye to the passengers I had met. Halifax awaits with all its stories and history—it’s the beginning of another adventure!