Telemark

We can see, far in the distance, seemingly tiny skiers going down a gigantic mound of powdery snow, leaving nothing behind but an enormous S-shaped trail, just like the one we've seen in those spectacular ski movies set in far away lands. The moutainside is strewn with those beautiful markings, yet there seem to be large parts of it that are still undisturbed. Then we see bands of winter adventurers, armed with snowshoes or seal skins, climbing back up the mountain, ready to take part once again in this winter ballet.

It's hard to believe that this scene takes place in Quebec. The high altitude, along with the Gaspésie latitude, makes the scenery look more like that of the far north: first, the dwarfed trees of the taiga, then no trees at all. As we climb the Bol des Patrouilleurs, which plummets 300 feet, the hill keeps getting steeper and we can feel our heart-rate rise accordingly. Photographer Denis Bouchard decides to catch his breath by taking a few low-angle shots. When we look down, we can't believe our eyes. Our surroundings look so unfamiliar, we feel like we're standing on the surface of the moon. The Bol des Patrouilleurs is the most accessible of the region's valleys. One or two hours of hiking and you're standing in front of one of nature's most magnificent creations. "If it's mountain adventures you're looking for, with no ski-lift, you've got to come here," says telemark champion Jean-Louis Arsenault. "Here, nature is your companion. You see a small avalanche, you jump right into it and you find yourself down the mountain with snow up to your shoulders!" he continues, laughing wholeheartedly. There are, however, some very strict safety rules you must follow, especially those concerning the dangers of an avalanche. This is not a sport that you can enjoy on your own.

What sport are we talking about, by the way? Telemark skiing, which is halfway between downhill and cross-country skiing. As a spectator sport, it's a marvel to behold. More importantly, it's an activity that allows you to conquer all sorts of terrain, be it an ascending or descending hill, or a long, calm plateau.

We meet two guys from Newfoundland who don't hide their enthusiasm for the sport. "The level of freedom associated with telemark is unbeatable," says one, while his friend adds, "Telemark combines all the best things about winter sports. You can go anywhere, the world is yours. No other mountain sport can give you this kind of freedom."

Sort of makes you want to rush out and buy equipment, doesn't it? Especially after you admire the graceful winter ballet put on by the dozen or so telemark addicts on the mountain today.

The Chic-Chocs mountains are the Quebec version of the telemarker's paradise. People come from the United States and the Maritimes to rush down these mountains. Our two Newfoundland friends, who are on their first visit to the Gaspesie Park, are all smiles when we interview them. They've travelled all over the world, visiting the best telemark places, and, everywhere they went, when people found out they were from Eastern Canada, they would say, " You live so close to the Gaspésie, you must know the Chic-Chocs like the back of your hand!" So they came to see what all the fuss was about. It's safe to say it won't be their last visit! Nor mine!