Gamy Gastronomy
During the summer, numerous Germans cross the big pond that separates us from the old countries. Passionate about hunting and nature, many of them end up at the Windigo Game Preserve, wild eyed and speechless. "Beaver and moose seem amazing to them," says owner Michel Lamarre. "In fact, they're excited about all they see, from butterflies to skunks!"
Not surprising then that Uwe, a German tourist, was very proud to show Jonathan, Michel's son who had come to give the guest a ride back to the preserve, what he had caught. Jonathan remembers the hilarious scene:
"Look at the cute baby bear I caught!" said Uwe to Jonathan.
"That's not a bear, that's a skunk! Throw that away!"
"No, no, I'm bringing it back to the preserve. We're going to cook it!"
Of course, our funny visitor never got to taste his smelly prey. After all, Windigo is a game preserve, not a garbage dump. Instead, people here prefer to dine on fresh fish from Réservoir Blanc, or even on some fowl hunted down by Jonathan, Michel or by the guests themselves.
Of all the animals who make their home here, it's by far the yellow pike that is the most popular with Michel. "It's the best, no doubt about it. Here, we even eat it raw, in sushi. For that, the fish has to be extra fresh, though."
No need to be a Julia Child wannabe to understand that when you're cooking, freshness is the most important "ingredient." And it's not because you buy live yellow pike in a fish shop that freshness is guaranteed. Michel always checks for bright-pink gills; it's the only way to be sure, according to him. "Or you can go by smell. If your fish smells fishy, then it's no longer fresh!"
Luckily, Michel has access to an exceptional site for fishing, the Des Coeurs rapids. "It's by far the best spot. The water is oxygenated, and it doesn't take long for a fisherman to fulfill his fishing quotas of six fish per day." But if you eat your catch that evening, you can have the pleasure of starting all over the following day, something that Michel does every single time.
Partridge Family Stew
Michel' s his son-in-law Matthias has just returned from hunting, a bunch of partridges tied to his bag.
Partridge fondue is Windigo's other culinary specialty, after yellow pike. "It's just like Chinese fondue, but the meat is pinker than beef. It tastes marvelous, a little like chicken, but more tender and delicate," says Lise, the preserve's cook. After one taste, we have to agree; it really is delicious. But just try to find partridge at your corner grocery store!
Lise has been handling the cooking duties at Windigo for the past twenty years and she has acquired a chef's wisdom in all things culinary, thanks to the thousands of birds who've "flown" by her kitchen. "I often cook the birds that the guests catch. When there's time, I let the meat stand for a day or two. It becomes much more tender and a lot tastier that way," she notes. In fact, all those who wish to do so can leave their catch in her expert hands, no matter what they may be. "When they come back from moose hunting, men love to eat the liver. It's the first thing that they eat!" adds Lise.
The Preserve's menu is varied: In the spring, you might eat bear fondue. "What? Bear, the forest's garbage man?" exclaims our little group. "Certainly! In the summer and fall, right before going into hibernation, bears purge by eating nothing but berries. In the spring, when they awake, their flesh is excellent. It tastes like filet mignon and makes delicious hamburgers!" swears Lise. I'll be!
As the evening goes on, Lise impresses us more and more with the gastronomic possibilities of the wilderness: duck stew, beaver pasta sauce, beaver meat wrapped with bacon. "This is a recipe I learned from a native woman. First, you boil the hind meat twice, changing the water in between the two boils. Then you wrap the meat in bacon and bake. Pure delight!"
Without even tasting it, we're all convinced. For myself, I think that the next time my grandmother wants to forcefeed me beaver oil, I'll think of Lise's wonderful beaver dishes.
