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You can feel the tension all along the rope. Two of the dogs are already tied into their harness and are barking non-stop. A few feet away, the rest of the pack is barking right along, trying to convey to their master that they are raring to go. But we're only taking out three sleds today and most of the dogs will have to stay behind.
Only one more dog left to harness to my sled. The three others are already pulling with all their might, absolutely wanting to get going. The longer we have to wait, the antsier they get. They're barking, wagging their tail and shaking their head. The last dog is attached to the principal rope, and the sled is finally ready. I can feel my adrenaline levels shooting right up.
The dogs start running full speed as soon as the sled is untied from its hitching post, which is even more surprising because the first part of the trail goes downhill. The paws hit the ground at an even pace as I try to maintain my balance. My dogs seem like they could run forever.
In this part of the Saguenay, the scenery starts to look very wild, which makes it perfect for a dog-sledding expedition. On a forest trail, swaying among the trees or on a frozen lake, lost in the middle of nowhere, the sled glides silently on a fresh blanket of snow.
Oh the silence. After having been on a few snowmobile expeditions in a row, I can tell you that it's the silence that I appreciate most about this week's adventure. We have only the trees for company, and the soft padding of the dogs on the snow for a lullaby. I don't think I've ever seen any living being more sure of its purpose in life than these dogs who seem like they were born to run. A sled dog must run, period. And he does it in a most impressive way.
Wanting to find out more about the master-and-dog relationship, I ask Frédéric and Valérie Dorgebray, who own Chiens et Gîte du Grand Nord, a few questions.
"Isn't it a bit dangerous to give inexperienced tourists their own sled and dogs?"
"We know our dogs, we give good instructions," answers Valérie. "That doesn't mean that the dog will not leave his sled. But we're guides and we can stop. And I think it's more fun that way. Just think of the temperatures here - even though it's minus 25, we go out with the sleds! If you sit someone in the sled, no matter how warmly dressed they are, they're not moving and they're going to be cold."
"Anybody can guide a sled," says Frédéric. "Ninety-nine per cent of our customers are beginners. Why would they go snowmobiling all by themselves? You get nothing out of it. The way I see it, whether you're sitting in the back of a snowmobile or a sled, you're still travelling like a piece of luggage. On the contrary, people are here to take part in an activity, to experience some new sensations. For that, you have to lead your own sled. And that way, people will remember the experience a lot longer because they actually took part in it."
Valérie tells us about a 70-year-old man who came here with his son and grandsons for three memorable days. This is a memory that family will always cherish.
There are many different activities to choose from at Chiens et Gîte du Grand Nord: snowshoeing, ice fishing, winter camping, snowmobiling or dog sledding. However, their speciality remains the long-distance dog-sledding raids. You can leave for three whole weeks, in complete autonomy, with a tent (or without, for those more experienced with winter camping), human and dog foods, an emergency radio, a wood stove and all necessary material. These expeditions require that you take along a larger pack, of six or seven dogs in order to pull the 150- to 200- kilo load. You can then visit territories with such exotic names as Pipmuacan Reservoir, Péribonka Lake, Manouane Lake, Mistassini Lake, Manicouagan Reservoir. This is the ultimate adventure, far from it all and at the same time closer to things that matter most.